How to:
Install new suspension bushings.
Information on how to change the bushings in the front
suspension without too much trouble. Get new bushings from either
Superflex
or Powerflex.
Both types are made of polyurethane and should last longer much longer and
be much stiffer than the original rubber bushes. Rubber is the saying word
here; Rubber....makes you think about something soft and flexible which is
not what suspension bushings should be. Polyurethane bushings will improve
steering response and suspension precision, and your suspension alignment
won't go out of adjustment.
The original Ford bushings are not stiff enough and won't last.
- Get the car up in the air with the wheels free, I.e.
support in on the appropriate jack-positions on the
chassis. Be sure that the car won't fall down on you
(that could hurt and lead to serious injury). It is a
very good idea to have it so high that you can stand
erect under it. This will ease the work a lot.
- Remove both front wheels.
- Remove the bolts that holds the antirollbar-bushes, the
bushing-carriers and the bar itself to the chassis.
Remove the antirollbar-bushes from the antiroll-bar. Then
remove the bolts at the ends of the antirollbar.
- Use a big wise to squeeze the antirollbar together so
that you can remove it from the lower track control arm.
If you don't have a wise then remove the lower track
control arm from it's inner fixing point, then remove the
stabilizer bar.
- Remove the bushings from the lower track control arm
where the antiroll bar went through.
- Remove the bolts that fixes the lower track control arm
to the chassis.
- Use a bearing puller or some other sort of extractor to
remove the old bushing from the lower track control arm.
- Clean and inspect all the parts you have taken apart
- When installing the new bushing use lots of the supplied
"copper-grease", this will ease assembly and
make this move a lot easier.
If you don't have a wise do steps 10 and 11 in reverse order. I
haven't tried it and I imagine it might require a lot of
force to get the lower track control arms into their correct
location when the stabilizer bar is fixed to them.
- Insert the new inner bushings into the lower track
control arm and fix them to the chassis with bolts and
NEW nuts, the nuts have plastic inserts that locks them
into place but those work only once. If you use old nuts
the chances of them working their way loose is big.
- Insert new bushings where the antirollbar passes through
the lower track control arm and insert the antirollbar
into the bushings and the track control arm. Fix the
antirollbar to the track control arm with NEW nuts. If
the nuts that comes with the bushings don't fit get some
others that do from Würth or it's like, don't use old
nuts. They did not fit on my May '92 car.
- Mount the antiroll bar bushes around the antiroll bar and
fix the antiroll bar to the chassis with the bush-carriers
and screws.
- Voila, you're done.
Here's the tightening torques:
| Lower arm pivot nut |
45 Nm, slacken to 0, then 15 Nm +90° |
| Stabilizer bar clamp to chassis |
70-97 Nm |
| Stabilizer bar to lower arm |
70-110 Nm |
| Wheel bolts |
100 Nm |
It is a good idea to have all your suspension angles checked when new
polyurethane bushings have been installed, the old bushings may have been so worn
that when changing to new ones the suspension alignment gets poor.
If you have any other good ideas send 'em to: SigmundCool@hotmail.com
Here's a little info on the rear suspension bushes.
Back to www.wrc-cosworth.org.